Cav Dpa Timing Marks Off
All this has been discussed on another post regarding a black smoke issue that wasn’t getting any activity. I would refer to the post but IDK how to link it or identity it. It is recent. Boat makes WOT RPM easy, High Idle is also good, prop calc confirms results, Boost is within spec at 22+psi, tachometer is reading high used phototach.
History is lacking.I would appreciate any information on the timing mark on the CAV pump that may help me save some work in pulling the gear case cover to look at the gear markings.Serial number is: 44239031The pump has been removed from the engine. There are scribe marks on the housing and gear case that line up. Unknown history on injectors. This is the next item to verify after the injection pump timing is confirmed.
Well, timing pin is sheared. It is not in the cam gear and I cannot find it in the front case.
I don´t believe it was done on my watch, but not 100%.The engine was not at TDC when I took the front gear case off. So, I don´t know what I felt when I thought the pin dropped in.Also, CAV pump reading a “C” on the rotor, expected a “G”. I don´t understand this. I also couldn´t find any info on rotor markings for the CAV DPA pump. I´ll have to continue searching for this.Going to get new timing pin. I don´t think it is worth worrying about the old one messing up the front end as it could have been some time ago. Which is most likely.Any advice is welcomed.
I am going to get this back together and chase up the injectors next. Part of me wants to pull the injection pump to have it looked at by a shop. But, really don´t want to spend the money on a gut feeling. I can always return to it if the injectors don´t show any issues.D.
I have a 98 Kobleco TLX760 backhoe with a Perkins 1004-4T turbo diesel engine. It has close to 3000 hours and I have had it for the last 400. It has always idled rough like a car engine does when a cylinder is missing. It gets better as the engine warms up but still not smooth. Off idle it runs great and has tons of power. I will be changing the fuel filter and cleaning the water seperator(or replacing) this weekend. I know the air filter and exhaust are not plugged.
I aslo use the Lucas diesel additive in every fill up to cut down on water and other contaiments. I have a service manual for it but it says to 'see dealer' for the timing part.
I have a good local Deere dealer but just about everyone has never heard of my tractor. It's similar to the Terex TX760 and Fermec 760 but I have to get parts, that are very expensive, from a few states away.Anyone know how to do this or can point me in the right direction? Ask my Deere dealer? It may not even be out of time but I would like to check.thanks!! Haven't worked on the particular engine your referring to but most diesels are pretty much the same.
It all depends on if its a rotary inj pump or inline. Common rail or electronic. Most electronic and common rail types are timed by computer and cannot be adjusted. Rotary mechanical pumps usually have a set of slotted holes you turn the pump to adjust and the inlines usually have to seperate the tapered shaft and move it via a dial indicator in a delivery valve hole. Any of these procedures are best left to a professional as if your guessing your probably making it worse.As far as your problem goes it sounds more like a bad injector than pump timing. If the timing is off on a diesel they usually start really hard lack power and consume alot of fuel.
Hope that helps. BTW there is sometimes a line on the pumps and one on the block that you line up for a starting point and the inline pumps sometimes have a plastic alignment pin you rotate the pump and push the pin in and line it up on NO 1 TDC Comp for starters.Mark. Haven't worked on the particular engine your referring to but most diesels are pretty much the same. It all depends on if its a rotary inj pump or inline. Common rail or electronic.
Most electronic and common rail types are timed by computer and cannot be adjusted. Rotary mechanical pumps usually have a set of slotted holes you turn the pump to adjust and the inlines usually have to seperate the tapered shaft and move it via a dial indicator in a delivery valve hole. Any of these procedures are best left to a professional as if your guessing your probably making it worse.As far as your problem goes it sounds more like a bad injector than pump timing. If the timing is off on a diesel they usually start really hard lack power and consume alot of fuel.
Hope that helps. BTW there is sometimes a line on the pumps and one on the block that you line up for a starting point and the inline pumps sometimes have a plastic alignment pin you rotate the pump and push the pin in and line it up on NO 1 TDC Comp for starters.Mark.
I looked at the hoe again today. I found some dirt build up around the injectors, the lines that go from each injector to the other were loose. I tighten them and fired her up but didn't help. Must have air in the system. That took all my daylight after work to do so I'll jump back on it Saturday.Transporter: That sounds like some good info and I believe during the last oil change I did see bronze colored metal flakes.
That looks like a pita to take the timing cover off while the engine is still in the hoe. The injectors are much easier to get to, I might send them off first.If it ain't one thing, it's another. Identify PumpBeen a long time since I worked on a Perkins engine but I recall them using either a Roosa - Master or a Lucas fuel system. There should be a plate on the pump showing manufacturer, timing specs, idle speeds (low and high).
Get that info and I can be more help. Hard to say what your trouble is with no background info. You can idle any diesel with a high pressure pump and alternately crack the injector lines and listen for the 'miss'.(DD's use unit injectors and they are shorted out by removing valve cover and depressing spring cage with large scewdriver. If you crack a line and hear no miss then that injector is not likely firing at idle. Always start with the most simple things because it usually is.
Check fuel condition(water). Bleed air from water seperator, bleed air from pump and filter(s), bleed all HP fuel delivery lines. Unless you are confident in doing these things you should seek out some experienced help. Get back to me with more info. Just my $0.02 cents worth.You have a leaky/hi-flowing injector in one of the cylinders.It's a plumbing pain, but its possible to test them (or get a close idea) by allowing them to spray/(fire) out of the engine. The worst one is usually real apparent, comparing to the others.You can swap injectors for rebuilt ones (or send yours for rebuild) for pennies on the dollar compared to rebuilding the pump.Edit: If it were mine, and not sure when they been re-caled last, try swapping the injectors first.
Fuel Injection Pump Timing Procedure
My approach.With the limited info I have I would get the engine idling and one at a time crack each injector B nut at the injector. Every time you crack(opened slightly) a line you listen for a noticeable 'miss' in the engine. This will also show a drop in rpm.
Cav Dpa Timing Marks Off Table
Re -tighten each line and move to the next. Every line cracked should create a 'miss' in the idle speed. If one line is cracked and there is no noticeable 'miss' then that injector is faulty.
I'm leaning towards the fuel lift pump though because you describe good power at high rpm. You also suggest the injection pump is new? A weak lift pump will not deliver enough fuel pressure nor create enough flow at low rpm but smartens up once you really get it turning. The more I think about this the more possibilities there are. Is the engine smoking?
The first things to check are: fuel quality, tank vented, pulling air into system anywhere on suction side of fuel system. Also look for any damaged, kinked fuel delivery and return lines. Water seperators on the suction side of pump are notorious for allowing air into system.
Good luck with this and let us know how you make out. If you can offer any more detail throw it out here. With the limited info I have I would get the engine idling and one at a time crack each injector B nut at the injector. Every time you crack(opened slightly) a line you listen for a noticeable 'miss' in the engine. This will also show a drop in rpm. Re -tighten each line and move to the next.
Every line cracked should create a 'miss' in the idle speed. If one line is cracked and there is no noticeable 'miss' then that injector is faulty. I'm leaning towards the fuel lift pump though because you describe good power at high rpm. You also suggest the injection pump is new?
A weak lift pump will not deliver enough fuel pressure nor create enough flow at low rpm but smartens up once you really get it turning. The more I think about this the more possibilities there are. Is the engine smoking? The first things to check are: fuel quality, tank vented, pulling air into system anywhere on suction side of fuel system.
Also look for any damaged, kinked fuel delivery and return lines. Water seperators on the suction side of pump are notorious for allowing air into system.
Good luck with this and let us know how you make out. If you can offer any more detail throw it out here. Click to expand.I will agree,Check for a faulty injector this way.One other note though. We have a generator at work with an engine that I think is identical. It is a perkins 4 cylinder and looks to be the same as yours.It has less than a hundred hours on it and when it fires up it is designed to go right to full rpms to run the generator.
Cav Dpa Timing Marks Off Road
Under no load it runs like crap. White smoke and runs rough. Put a load on it and it runs perfect. We called a perkins dealer about warrenty when we started it up from new and it did this and they said there was nothing wrong and to just run it. We didn't put a load on it at first cause it ran so crappy.It might just be some odd thing with this series engines.:monkey.